Funchal

Food

Walking the levadas

Exploring Madeira

Staying at the Casino Park hotel in the capital Funchal was a fantastic location in which to explore the island. Perched on a hill, lie back relax and watch the cruise liners below.

Outside the hotel is a statue of Empress Elizabeth of Austria who lived during the 19th Century. Nicknamed Sissi, she spent 6 months in Madeira in 1860.

En route to town, Saint Catarina gardens are a delight to stroll through. With great views of the Marina, and a variety of tropical plants, it is well worth a visit. Occasionally I came across mini lizards darting between the rocks.

It’s a pleasant stroll around the small capital Funchal which was once dubbed ‘little Lisbon’.

Madeiran’s take pride in their Island so there are no shortage of souvenir and embroidery shops to be found. From the main Avenida Do Mar seafront promenade container ships and cruise liners can be seen. This deep natural harbour area is the main reason why Funchal became the capital. .

At night the harbour has it’s own romantic atmosphere.

Funchal celebrated 500 years of City status in August ‘08 by the Portuguese crown

Walking around the centre I thought Christmas had come early!

Funchals Cathedral, constructed in 1485, was completed in1514. Manuel 1 the king of Portugal sent 2 master builders to supervise the work and was constructed in the Manueline style. The religion is Catholic and the nautical themes are reflected with anchors, ropes and fish as well as flora and fauna. The choir stalls are carved out of the same wood and painted blue and gold. Saints, apostles and evangelists are depicted in the stalls.

A visit to the old town really reveals a continental flavour as the narrow cobbled alleys are decked with outdoor cafes and restaurants. You only have to look at the small shops to get a feeling for something older and slower such as the antiquated general stores in the area.

Look down and admire the craftsmanship of the pavements. In the old town the pavements are made of sea pebbles, carefully selected so they are all the same size, set in mortar.

Above is a view of Praca do Municipio.

Nearby visit the farmers Market; where colourful tiled panels line the entrance. A strong fish smell leads you to the meat and fish section on the lower floor. The ugly Espada fish are elongated with sharp teeth and are exclusive to Madeira’s waters. A traditionally clad Madeiran celebrates her birthday. Upstairs you can’t miss the sweet tropical aromas of flowers for sale including the native proteas and strelitzia’s. Some of the protea’s resemble an eyeball!

There are plenty of orchids and flamingo plants for sale too. Local vendors are happy to let you ‘try before you buy’. For those with a sweet tooth try the long green Filodentro fruit or why not sample the custard apples.

Madeirans’ are also known for their traditional Wickerwork; one of the islands most important cottage industries, and there’s a good selection to see here. Vegetables and spices are also sold in colourful abundance.

Near the centre, catch a cable car up to Monte Palace Tropical gardens. From watching people dine on the terraces to ships getting smaller is a good enough excuse alone to ride the route. Red tiled white villas get smaller as the 55 m ascension takes you high up towards the gardens. En route I was lucky enough to capture the daredevil ‘high flying’ job of mechanics on camera.

Twenty minutes and 6km later the gardens were clearly signed – 7 hectares of verdant beauty.

A stroll along the Japanese garden paths reveals an interesting view of Portugal’s history in the form of colourful tiled panels dating from 16th - 20th Century.

The Japanese Garden contains terracotta statues and an attractive tiered lake with Koi fish.

I must admit to having a very lucky day regarding the local people. I dropped a 20E note and a kind lady informed me near the museum. Later I left the hotel card on a bench and a guy chased me. Towards the end of the day I left my CD bag in the café and I was called back. Yes plenty of note taking and photography can be tiring.

Nearby is a museum to break up the route. On the 1st and 2nd floor is the “African Passion” exposition showing contemporary Zimbabwean sculptures from 1966-1969. (There are more than 1000 sculptures).

If like me you’re a bit of a crystal buff, you’ll love the Gem museum on the lower floor titled “Mother nature secrets.” With an array of rock sized crystals, the local guide kindly helped me to identify the ones I photographed. The large gems are international; many originating from Brazil – quartz, amethyst, tourmaline, selenite and calcite to name a few. There are around 700 specimens on display.

The walks include a variety of exotic plants i.e. cycads and proteas from South Africa, sequoias from America, acacias from Australia and 1000 year old olive trees from Portugal.

Feeling brave? Then speed on down with the traditional Monte toboggan. Rear manned by 2 gents who look like they’ve left the Henley regatta, climb into the mini wicker ‘settee’ as they guide and break (using the soles of their shoes) the steep ride downhill. The 2km run certainly gives a rush of adrenalin.

This thrill dates back to 1850, although the price reflects otherwise at around 20E each. Watch out for taxi drivers at the bottom. There is a good bus network and payment is by a card that can be purchased from the driver. It is cheaper to ‘top up’ your ticket from a local pay shop than buying a ticket each time.